Title: FT TC4 Setup Sheet Author: Brought to you by Team Associated & CompetitionX.com Created Date: 8/19/2005 8:37:57 AM.

Team Associated TC4 setup tips LufasoTeam Associated TC4 Setup Tips -Set-Up sheets in PDF format are linked below.PDF Setup Sheets - use fromNot all setup sheets are online. Please e-mail me and I'll be happy to upload it.There are many variables involved insetting up a Team Associated TC4 radio controlled racing car. It is notpossible to give a setup that will work with all tracks and drivingstyles. I give a starting point for the various parameters involved insetting up the TC4 based on the setups I have tested. Before you read any of the information below, read the following.has lots of information, updates, and tips.Team Associated.Read to understand what each change will make.HPI also has a.Construction and AssemblyChassis/ComponentsStartwith the Team Associated TC4 Team Kit (#30100). Check each part andremove the flashing from all parts. I check the chassis to see howclose it is to being planar.

Slide a metal straight edge ruler tosearch for high spots from leftover flash on the chassis. A flat filewill remove the low spots (or screws) that could possibly cause drag onthe track. Countersink slightly, if necessary.Front/Rear SuspensionThe front and suspension should be free and smooth.

Without the shockinstalled, the arms sould raise and fall freely under their own weight.Check the outside hinge pins to ensure they are straight.Front Chassis BracesIn an effort to reduce weight, I put a small slot on the underside ofthe brace. Drill a hole in between the transmission mounting holes. Ialso cut of the outside most camber link mount, as I never use it.

Thetotal weight savings is 0.03 oz.Steering RackI blueprint the swing rack pivot post length. The swing rack pivot postcan be shortened a few 0.001' to tighten up the tolerance and reduceslop in the steering. I check this by removing the front tires, thenmoving the steering turnbuckle vertically up and down. Some play can beremoved by grinding some material off of tghe bottom of the swing rackpivot post.

Warning: don't take too much material off or you will causethe steering rack to bind up. Be sure to check the steering movesfreely.Bumper The dense front bumper can be lightened by taking some material from the underside with a Dremel tool.CVD'sI break in the CVD's, bearings, and differentials by using an old motorhooked up to a battery pack.

Take the shocks and wheels off and turnthe car upside down. You will notice any binding CVD's by the bounce upand down of the suspension arms. The CVD may have a bent pin or mayneed to be rebuilt with new lubrication.Shock AssemblyFollow directions included in kit.

Apply Green Slime to build a smoothset of shocks, and lightly coat the shock shaft/o-ring seals. Fill theshock bodies with desired weight oil and bleed the shocks. The mostimportant tip is to ensure the rebound is equal on both shocks. Itypically assemble shocks with very little rebound, but the mostimportant part is that each is equal. Wrap a piece of paper around theshock shaft, the use little pressure to hold the shock shaft,minimizing the chance to scratch with pliers. Measure the distance fromthe shock body to the ball cup and adjust until both are even.

Readmore about shock oil weights at.By following the instructions and a little practice, the stock shockswork just fine. I have never had one leak that was properly assembled.Servo MountReplace the plastic servo mounts with the factory team parts. Replacethe steel button head screws with blue anodized aluminum socket capscrews to save a little weight. Using a Dremel cutoff wheel, theexposed ball ends were ground down on the servo arm.Weight Replace the steel screws with blue anodized aluminum screws.

Don't use aluminum screws in any aluminum parts.HandlingSetting the TweakI don't claim to know the best way to set the tweak on the car. I'lldescribe how I set the tweak using a Niftech tweak board, but similartweak boards will work as well. Feel free to send me a suggestion on abetter method. First make sure the tires sizes are close to even. Checkto make sure the shock springs are the same length (these do vary!).Make sure the shock body to beginning of ball cup is the same length.Set the ride height to 5 mm at each corner. Make sure the camber is setproperyly for the tires to wear evenly, no coning in either side of thetire.

Remove the wheels and set the droop (equal right to left) towhatever is appropriate for the roll center setup, tire size, etc.Reinstall the wheels and have all equipment installed like the car willbe raced. Ensure tweak board is level in all directions. Place the reartires on the solid portion of the tweak board, with the front chassisflat on the part of the tweak board that rotates, or on top of a levelspacer. Adjust the shock setting to obtain an even tweak for the rear.Now place the front tires on the solid portion of the tweak board, andrear part of the chassis on the part that rotates, then adjust thetweak for the front. After the front and rear are adjusted separately,place all four wheels on the tweakboard. The tweak should be very nearlevel. Perform any slight adjustment if it is necessary, but don't makeall the adjustment in a single shock, spread it out evenly over the 4shocks.

Be sure to press evenly on the center of the suspension aftereach step and adjustment to make sure there is no bias and to settlethe suspension. I record the distance between the collar and shock hex.In my opinion, it doesn't matter at allwhat the tweak board shows, it's how it handles on the track. Afterfollowing the above steps drive the car on the track in practice. Ifthe car doesn't handle evenly on the track, then adjust all four shockcollars until it steers evenly left and right. After getting the car tohandle evenly, put the car back on the tweak station with all 4 wheels.I measure/estimate how much the bubble is off center and write it down.I do the same thing for the front and rear, with the chassis resting onthe tweak plate, recording the values for the tweak offset on the tweakboard. I remeasure the shock collar to hex distances.

Now I have asetting that will allow me to purposely adjust the car so that althoughit is not tweaked according to the tweak board, it handles evenly onthe track.I have not tried adjusting the tweak by the X-acto blade method. Read an and for using the MIP tweak board.

HPI also describes how to.Tiresare one of the most important aspects of the car. Jaco Double Pink forthe rear, and Orange/Double Pink on the front. A tire durometer canmatch the hard/softness. There will always be a gaussian distributionof tire compounds, as the range of compound density in foam rubberproduction will always be present. Matching the tires can be useful,often a car that is 'tweaked ' may just have a mismatched set of tires.If you get multiple sets of front tires at the same time, match thewidth of the orange foam. A more narrow orange strip will give moresteering than a wide orange strip. Apply CA glue on the sidewalls willprevent the tire separating from the wheel when the tire becomes verysmall, or when spearation occurs due to the high cornering speeds.

CAon the sidewall also slightly stiffens the sidewall for high tractionsurfaces. Rubber tires are more straightforward, but I only haveexperience with CS-27.Foam Tire SizeThe 'best' tire size is the smallest in which enough traction isavailable for the entire 5 minute run, and maintains enough ride heightto meet ROAR rules 0.125' and not drag and rub on track. Typical tiresizes for carpet range from 2.2' to 2.3' on the front for a smoothtrack. Tire weight is a major factor in determining the size to use.

Onvery low traction asphalt tracks that are dusty, I prefer to use largertires, sometimes as large as 2.5' to obtain more side bite due tosidewall flex/roll.Ride HeightThe car is riding too low when the front of the chassis/body mountscrews are blackened after a run.I typically run the ride height atabout 0.150' to 0.175' (approx 5 mm) for very smooth tracks and a stiffsuspension setup. For a softer spring setup or rougher track, a higherride height of 5.0 mm or above should be used.Turning circleAdjustment of the turning circle is critical in obtaining consistentand equal left and right steering. The dual rate should be adjusted to100%, then the individual right and left steering endpoints adjusted tothe maxmimum physical value allowed (steering block touching carrier).Take the car to the track and place it next to a board.

Turn the wheelright to the maxmimum and drive the car in a half circle. Mark the spotof the outside tires. Pick up the car and place it back against theboard. Turn it to the left and drive a half circle. Decrease thesteering on the side that has a smaller turning circle and repeat untilboth left and right turning circles match. The dual rate adjustment maythen be turned down to about 80-95%.

I leave extra adjustment in casethe car has a slight understeer, which I increase the steering duringthe race. The minimum possible amount of steering throw should be usedon the track in order to have the greatest sensitivity and control inthe steering. Excessive steering throw and a understeering car is veryinefficient because the front tires will be scrubbing speed, althoughit is easier to drive. This has to be balanced with the ability to turnthe car around in case of a crash.Tire Traction Thestandard traction compound for use on ozite based carpet is ParagonGround Effects. There are many important factors in it's use - whichcan be quite an effective tuning agent. The length of time the tractionstays on is important. Aromaterapija knjiga pdf to jpg. For tracks with low traction, it should beallowed to soak in for a longer period of time.

On high traction track,a few minutes may be all the is necessary. The amount applied is alsoconsidered - in most cases I see racers putting on much more thannecessary for the track conditions.

This can actually slow the car downas the softer tire tend to scrub more speed - slowing the car down andreducing run time and efficiency. It is also beneficial to change tireseach run to prevent traction build up. I typically run only one set oftires a few times a day (using those same sets again the next race dayand I sometimes alternate between 2 sets.Indoor tracks which donot allow Paragon, but do allow odorless traction compounds, I havetried Paragon Traction Action, Corally 'Jack the Gripper' and TQ Orangebased traction compounds. The compound should be allowed to soak intothe tires for longer than paragon (approx 35. Minutes if possible).Rubber tires are an entirely different matter that depends on the tire,traction applied to the track, and track temperature. Try Paragon FXIIand see what the fast guys are using.Front and Rear Springs Onhigh traction carpet where the steering is high, I use the yellow,purple, or copper on the front. The rear spring is most often copper,or the same or softer than the front springs.

It depends on the amountof steering needed, bumps on the track, and responsiveness desired. Has a comparison of different manufacturer springs.Front and Rear Oil Onhigh traction carpet, I range I use is Associated 60-40 wt with #2pistons in the front, with Associated 50-35 wt with #2 pistons in therear. On tighter tracks, decrease the weight in both shockssimultaneously if the cars handling is close to desired. Decrease theoil viscosity if the tire size is large or the car is chattering in thecorners. See the setup sheets above for what I use.Arm Mount Shimming/Roll Center Seethe next to last page of the TC4 instruction manual for how the armmount shimming affects the kick-up, anti-dive, anti-squat, andpro-squat. Anti-dive reduces weight transfer to the front ondeceleration entering the corner.

Kickup makes the front suspensionstiffer. Anti-squat makes the rear suspension stiffer and gives the carmore entry steering and reduces rearward weight transfer on power.Pro-squat increases rearward weight transfer on power. Generally, oncarpet a lower roll center is used. For rubber tires, try the standardsettings.

There are some software programs, such as the that one could try to calculate the roll centers. Experiment to see what works best for you.Shock Angle Themore vertical the shock, the stiffer the spring force, and converselythe more angled the shock the suspension is softer. On the lowersuspension arm, the further out the shock is mounted, the suspension isstiffer. As the shock changes angle upon travel, there is someprogressive response.Chassis Rake isthe single most under-checked part in setting up a TC4 (or any onroadcar for that matter). The chassis should be very nearly level - towithin 0.5mm and this is another way to tune the handling.

By havingthe front end lower than the rear, more steering can be obtained andconversely having the rear end lower the the front will create lesssteering. Note that is valid only to a small tuning amount and can notbe taken to extremes (1.0 mm).Caster More negative caster gives more high speed steering, and less low speed steering. I typically use 2-4 degrees total.Front and Rear CamberI use a Team Associated or RPM camber/caster gauge to measure and tuneeach side to measure the same. I use about -1.0 to -1.5 degrees ofcamber, which allows the tire to wear evenly. I adjust the camber untilthe tire wears evenly and do not use this as a tuning parameter oncarpet. On rubber tires, slightly less camber (-1 degree).Anti-Dive/Kick-upMore anti-dive reduces weight transfer to the front on decelerationentering corners, and reduces caster. Kick-up makes front suspensionstiffer and adds caster.Anti-Squat/Pro-SquatMore anti-squat makes the rear suspension stiffer, more entry steering,and reduce rearward weight transfer on power.

Pro-squat will increaserear weight transfer on power.Front and Rear Shock PositionShock position on the arm and tower can be used to fine tune thehandling. A more vertical position is stiffer, more responsive, butless traction. The setting correlates with the spring and oil choice.Experiment to see what works best for you.Wheelbase Iuse the stock wheelbase settings. Moving the front or rear wheelstowards the center of the car will result in more traction at that endof the car.Sway Bar(s) Swaybars are an effective way to fine tune the car on carpet. The baselinesetup is to use the stock front sway bar.

I prefer to set up the carusing all other available parameters before fine tuning with a rearsway bar. I use the stock TA or thin 0.055' BRP swaybar on the rear tocontrol body roll and amount of steering. The multiple swaybar kit,with 3 thickness bars is available AE. Setting the sway bar.1 - Make sure you have the droop set, and it's equal on both sides(I.e. If you're trying to run less droop on one corner- notrecommended- then do it after you set your rollbar)2- install the bar and make sure it moves freely on the tranny mounts.3- install the pivot balls and caps, make sure not to over-tighten thecaps and the ball moves freely.4-hook everything up5- hold on side down against the stop and press up on the opposite armout at the hub. If there is a 'dead spot' with no resistance, lengthenthe link on that side, if there is a lot of resistance, shorten thelink.

Check the opposite side as well and repeat until there is equalresistance when pushing up6- double check your settings by flipping the car upside-down. Hold oneside against the stops and inspect the gap between the droop screw andthe opposite stop. Check and see if both sides are the same. If one gapis larger, shorten that link (remember that also grows the gap on theopposite arm so use small increments.In the end you should pass both tests and each side should move at anequal time when lifting the opposite arm. Be careful not to shorten thelinks too much and pinch the upper ball inside the eyelet. If you can'tshorten the left side any more, then it's time to lengthen the right.Hopefully none of your swaybars are so tweaked that you run out ofadjustment.

Then, just re-bend the bar or preferably get a new one.Gearing Gearing depends on the track size, motor anddriving style. A good starting point can be found in the TC4 manual,which is about 10 teeth over the number of turns in the modified wind.Large track sizes, I gear up to 15 teeth (48 pitch, 25/72 for a 10turn) over the wind. I prefer to use the rollout sheets to determinethe rollout number for gearing.

This is much more comparable betweencars and tire sizes. Check the setup sheets for more info.MaintenanceDifferential Theplastic differentials require checking more often than the steelversion. Check the tightness after every run. The differential shouldnot slip under normal acceleration (off of a corner). The plasticdifferential my heat up and grab when using a low turn modified motor.The car will develop oversteer during the race. Check the diffimmediately after the race, it should still be smooth. Disassemble thedifferential and check for parts that may be rubbing together - youwill notice a ring on either diff half.

The plastic diff weight is 0.42oz, while the steel diff is 1.00 oz. A good compromise is plastic infront and an Aluminum in the rear.

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One takes a chance of breaking thediff outdrive. The most reliable differential is steel in front andrear, which is what should be used in modified. Replace thedifferential thrust spring, with initial length 0.285' and replacewhen noticeably shorter, i.e.